Thursday, August 20, 2015

Second Fitting

Hi, all,
      Just a quick note to let you know that alterations were made to Tiny Kitty’s undergarments.  I have made a small digital layout for you to know the changes I made. (Elements are from Scrapgirls, LLC)  The new pictures will show the better fit for her slip and explain the changes I made.  She is so much happier with her garments. 

      I will be away for a couple weeks before continuing to work on Miss Kitty’s Edwardian clothes.  Until I return, I will be taking a class, and taking a small vacation to visit friends.  While I am busy with these things, I will also be working on the pattern for the inspiration dress.  I keep reinterpreting the assembly process.  I do want to try for a new pair of shoes, too!  It will be a challenge. 

Until, then, have a wonderful Labor Day Holiday!


Thursday, August 13, 2015

A new Slip for Kitty Collier

It never pays to rush things.  I got a late start on tiny Kitty’s slip this week.  Sunday was my first opportunity to continue her undergarments.  I am afraid it shows.  A couple of errors in the hurrying up for the blog, and then I realized I do not really need to hurry, do I? 

I totally forgot about the adjustment to make in the hip area of the corset, which made my slip just a tiny bit, maybe one seam allowance, tight.  I hate ripping seams after so much work.  At the last minute I decided to sew up the back seam, (I was going to leave it open, but who wants to sit on buttons?) The corset strings create a bit of a bump as well.  I can fix it.    

My original intention was to have a princess styled silhouette, but the more information I had it became apparent a narrower shape would be required.  I narrowed the panels, added lace, and cut off the excess slip fabric from the bodice and the hem.  I added lace straps instead. 

The pictures below show the working out of the pattern and the changing the silhouette. 


I chose this picture as an inspiration. 

Pattern made and sample slip tested.  Ready to cut out and sew. 

Advice for succession sewing.  Lay out the pieces in the order for which they are assembled, pick one up and sew, then to the next, and on and on.  I leave the center back open.

First fitting with primary seam completed for French seaming.  The original intentions was to leave the back open and close the length.  

When adding laces, interview the laces you have.  Do scallops go with geometric designs?  Does one lace and width llook well with another?   

As you can see here, I did not use any of the others and opted to add a simple edging with a beading lace accent.  In other words I kept it simple more or less with my inspiration.  

Here are the laces sewn on, and the slip portions cut away from the laces.  

Completed Slip Front
Completed Slip Back

 (I wonder if I should take this next week to fix the slip and show you the repaired items, re-lace the corset, etc.  At least, the very least, Kitty is more covered and she is becoming more comfortable with the camera. )

Tuesday, August 4, 2015

Tiny Kitty Corset and Hosiery

Tiny Kitty modeling her corset in the atelier

Tiny Kitty is now less embarrassed than she was last week as she is more fully dressed.  She is still embarrassed about showing her unmentionables.  After last week’s post, I challenged myself to do a layer a week.  I thought I was not going to make it.  I would swear that I had ADD but I think this time, I had a good murder mystery getting in the way.  I worked an hour and read an hour, worked an hour, read an hour.  Most distracting way to work ever, but I could not decide what to do.  It did give me brief breaks to think through stumbling points as well. This corset had quite a few.  Something I would normally take for granted gave me some challenges.  I wanted to go for the longer line but I also wanted to try a new technique.  As with all projects, I began with research and some pictures.
The corset pattern pieces traced to interfacing, ironed and cut out.  The same pattern draw onto the outside fabric.  The pieces were all sewn together by machine and sewn together again.  

Kitty’s corset fits fairly well, but on second review, it appears that I should reduce the width in the hips and perhaps increase it in the bust line.  (Would that were my problem.) Since this corset was a first for me, I made some mistakes along the way.  However, the final result looks quite well, mistakes and all.  There are so many seams and channels that on this size figure, I did not use stays.  The stiffness with interfacing and lining was sufficient to give the feel of a tightly fitting corset.  I used brads and eyes for the corset busk.  It looks like it works.  I will not be dressing and undressing her, as I need to work out some strength details of the closure.  If the metal color is not right, get that done PRIOR to finishing the closure. 

The fitting and lacing process.  Snap the front together, fit the back and future removal depends only on unbuttoning the front each time.  No more unlacing, no more dressers, fit once and done! 

At the last minute, I decided she needed a pair of hose.  I am contemplating a set of garters to hang from the corset.  We will not know until next week, but I should move on to the slip.  I hope that I will get a step closer to deciding which casual dress to make.  And I am still researching the shoes or boots.    

Thank you for reading, and as always have some fun!
Kathi Mendenhall