Friday, October 31, 2008
Friday, October 24, 2008
Mid to Late Victorian Fashions - 1860 - 1901
After 1860 there were 3 big changes in Fashion: The invention of the sewing machine, Synthetic dyes would allow more intense colors and that the crinolines shirt flattened in the front and moved and softer towards the back. Charles Worth thought the crinoline skirt unattractive. He is associated with a manipulation of this style resulting the shape soon changed to a new trained, softer bustled version, which only the really rich found practical.
1870s fashion in European and European-influenced clothing is characterized by a gradual return to a narrow silhouette after the full-skirted fashions of the 1850s and 1860s.
By 1870, fullness in the skirt had moved to the rear, where elaborate draping was held in place by tapes and supported by a bustle. This fashion required an underskirt, which was heavily trimmed with pleats, rouching, and frills. This fashion was short-lived (though the bustle would return again in the mid-1880s), and was succeeded by a tight-fitting silhouette with fullness as low as the knees: the cuirass bodice, a form-fitting, long-waisted, boned bodice that reached below the hips, and the princess sheath dress.
Daytime dresses had high necklines that were either closed, squared, or V-shaped. Sleeves of day dresses were narrow throughout the period, with a tendency to flare slightly at the wrist early on. Women often draped overskirts to produce an apronlike effect from the front.
Evening dresses had low necklines and very short, off-the-shoulder sleeves, and were worn with short (later mid-length) gloves. Other characteristic fashions included a velvet ribbon tied high around the neck and trailing behind for evening (the origin of the modern choker necklace).
1880- As in the previous decade, emphasis remained on the back of the skirt, with fullness gradually rising from behind the knees to just below the waist. The fullness over the buttocks was balanced by a fuller, lower bosom, achieved by rigid corseting, creating an S-shaped silhouette.
Skirts were looped, draped, or tied up in various ways, and worn over matching or contrasting underskirts. The polonaise was a revival style based on a fashion of the 1780s, with a fitted, cutaway overdress caught up and draped over an underskirt. Long, jacket-like fitted bodices called basques were also popular for daywear.
Evening gowns were sleeveless and low-necked (except for matrons), and were worn with long over the elbow or shoulder length gloves of fine kid leather or suede.
Choker necklaces and jeweled collars were fashionable under the influence of Alexandra, Princess of Wales, who wore this fashion to disguise a scar on her neck.
Fashionable women's clothing styles shed some of the extravagances of previous decades (so that skirts were neither crinolined as in the 1850s, nor protrudingly bustled in back as in the late 1860s and mid-1880s, nor tight as in the late 1870s), but corseting continued unmitigated, or even slightly increased in severity. Early 1890s dresses consisted of a tight bodice with the skirt gathered at the waist and falling more naturally over the hips and undergarments than in previous years.
The mid 1890s introduced leg o'mutton sleeves, which grew in size each year until they disappeared in about 1896. During the same period of the mid '90s, skirts took on an A-line silhouette that was almost bell-like. The late 1890s returned to the tighter sleeves often with small puffs or ruffles capping the shoulder but fitted to the wrist. Skirts took on a trumpet shape, fitting more closely over the hip and flaring just above the knee. Corsets in the 1890s helped define the hourglass figure as immortalized by artist Charles Dana Gibson. In the very late 1890s the corset elongated, giving the women a slight S-curve silhouette that would be popular well into the Edwardian era.
1870s fashion in European and European-influenced clothing is characterized by a gradual return to a narrow silhouette after the full-skirted fashions of the 1850s and 1860s.
By 1870, fullness in the skirt had moved to the rear, where elaborate draping was held in place by tapes and supported by a bustle. This fashion required an underskirt, which was heavily trimmed with pleats, rouching, and frills. This fashion was short-lived (though the bustle would return again in the mid-1880s), and was succeeded by a tight-fitting silhouette with fullness as low as the knees: the cuirass bodice, a form-fitting, long-waisted, boned bodice that reached below the hips, and the princess sheath dress.
Daytime dresses had high necklines that were either closed, squared, or V-shaped. Sleeves of day dresses were narrow throughout the period, with a tendency to flare slightly at the wrist early on. Women often draped overskirts to produce an apronlike effect from the front.
Evening dresses had low necklines and very short, off-the-shoulder sleeves, and were worn with short (later mid-length) gloves. Other characteristic fashions included a velvet ribbon tied high around the neck and trailing behind for evening (the origin of the modern choker necklace).
1880- As in the previous decade, emphasis remained on the back of the skirt, with fullness gradually rising from behind the knees to just below the waist. The fullness over the buttocks was balanced by a fuller, lower bosom, achieved by rigid corseting, creating an S-shaped silhouette.
Skirts were looped, draped, or tied up in various ways, and worn over matching or contrasting underskirts. The polonaise was a revival style based on a fashion of the 1780s, with a fitted, cutaway overdress caught up and draped over an underskirt. Long, jacket-like fitted bodices called basques were also popular for daywear.
Evening gowns were sleeveless and low-necked (except for matrons), and were worn with long over the elbow or shoulder length gloves of fine kid leather or suede.
Choker necklaces and jeweled collars were fashionable under the influence of Alexandra, Princess of Wales, who wore this fashion to disguise a scar on her neck.
Fashionable women's clothing styles shed some of the extravagances of previous decades (so that skirts were neither crinolined as in the 1850s, nor protrudingly bustled in back as in the late 1860s and mid-1880s, nor tight as in the late 1870s), but corseting continued unmitigated, or even slightly increased in severity. Early 1890s dresses consisted of a tight bodice with the skirt gathered at the waist and falling more naturally over the hips and undergarments than in previous years.
The mid 1890s introduced leg o'mutton sleeves, which grew in size each year until they disappeared in about 1896. During the same period of the mid '90s, skirts took on an A-line silhouette that was almost bell-like. The late 1890s returned to the tighter sleeves often with small puffs or ruffles capping the shoulder but fitted to the wrist. Skirts took on a trumpet shape, fitting more closely over the hip and flaring just above the knee. Corsets in the 1890s helped define the hourglass figure as immortalized by artist Charles Dana Gibson. In the very late 1890s the corset elongated, giving the women a slight S-curve silhouette that would be popular well into the Edwardian era.
Labels:
Historical Fashion
Saturday, October 18, 2008
Show and Tell - Old English Man
On one of my trips to England to attend Miniatura in Birmingham, I purchased this old man. I love him as he reminds me so much of England. His garb is so typical of gentleman of his age. Notice that the artist even made teeny tiny femo nose and ear hair. The doll is made by Carol Bull of Bags of Characters. Michelle minidolls.com
Labels:
Pretty
Friday, October 17, 2008
New to minidolls.com/Doll Artsit's Workshop
Click on the titles to see the items on my website. Michelle minidolls.com/Doll Artist's Workshop
Insect Pins
These pins are used by entomologists. They are the sharpest finest pin I have ever seen. Choose from black enameled or stainless. Both have a gold nylon head.Gold Tipped Stamin
Gold tipped Stamins use to decorate your miniature millinery.
Hat made using the Stamins.
More new Silk Hair colors:
Insect Pins
These pins are used by entomologists. They are the sharpest finest pin I have ever seen. Choose from black enameled or stainless. Both have a gold nylon head.Gold Tipped Stamin
Gold tipped Stamins use to decorate your miniature millinery.
Hat made using the Stamins.
More new Silk Hair colors:
Labels:
New to minidolls.com
Tuesday, October 14, 2008
Ruche Ribbon How To
Here is a quickie how-to make ruched ribbon. Have fun!! Kathi and Michelle
Step 1
Tie a knot in the end of the ribbon you want to ruche and pin to your work board.Step 2
Snip a line about 1/8” into the center of the ribbon to separate the threads.Step 3
Separate the threads to find the outside threads.Step 4
Using a bit of tension begin to push the ribbon toward the pinned knot. Work this slowly. Use the tension to keep it from rolling and getting out of your control.Step 5
Using a bit of tension begin to push the ribbon toward the pinned knot. Work this slowly. Use the tension to keep it from rolling and getting out of your control.
Step 6
Continue ruching to the required length. I dot glue along the knot edge and the finished edged before cutting any of the strings away.
Step 1
Tie a knot in the end of the ribbon you want to ruche and pin to your work board.Step 2
Snip a line about 1/8” into the center of the ribbon to separate the threads.Step 3
Separate the threads to find the outside threads.Step 4
Using a bit of tension begin to push the ribbon toward the pinned knot. Work this slowly. Use the tension to keep it from rolling and getting out of your control.Step 5
Using a bit of tension begin to push the ribbon toward the pinned knot. Work this slowly. Use the tension to keep it from rolling and getting out of your control.
Step 6
Continue ruching to the required length. I dot glue along the knot edge and the finished edged before cutting any of the strings away.
Labels:
Tutorials
Saturday, October 11, 2008
Do you ever feel yourself saying....
..."I should have been a STAR!"If not, I will treat you like a star...In appreciation to all those that read the Blog you can save $5...just type the word BLOG in the comments section of your order from Doll Artist's Workshop/minidolls.com and I will deduct $5 from your total. Be SURE to click the SAVE COMMENTS button....Otherwise I will not know.
Offer expires: 10/22/08
Offer expires: 10/22/08
Labels:
For The Artist,
Pretty
Friday, October 3, 2008
Cotton/Silk Sateen - new to minidolls.com
Both Kathi and I have been so busy working on new projects and ideas for the coming months. I have been tardy in my posts this past couple weeks. Catching up on order and all. But I had to take the time to tell you about the most glorious fabric I have found.
It is a 60% Cotton/40% Silk Sateen. It is as light and soft as air and smooth like a silk satin. Gorgeous colors in soft and dark tones. Guaranteed you will love it as much as I do. Find it here: Cotton/Silk Sateen
It comes in 9 colors: white, black, pewter, teal, wine, seafoam, nude, chocolate, eggplant
It is a 60% Cotton/40% Silk Sateen. It is as light and soft as air and smooth like a silk satin. Gorgeous colors in soft and dark tones. Guaranteed you will love it as much as I do. Find it here: Cotton/Silk Sateen
It comes in 9 colors: white, black, pewter, teal, wine, seafoam, nude, chocolate, eggplant
Labels:
New to minidolls.com
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)