Bridal Challenge

 

I have a project I would like to tell you about, but it is anachronistic and I do not want my purist friends to go crazy.  I mean I would not do this unless there was a real reason for the project and there is a reason.  This is a story of six degrees of separation.  A friend of mine, Nancy, is a friend of someone I idolize, the late Mr. John Burbidge.  (Les Petites Dames des Modes see previous post:

http://creativedoll.blogspot.com/2008/02/who-is-john-burbidge.html)  

I talked and talked about him when we had a chance.  One day she let the bomb drop.  I know him, you know.  My jaw dropped.  I asked her a billion questions.   My friend Nancy was the hairdresser for his Little Ladies.  She wigged and styled each one.  I was flabbergasted but fascinated as well.  How had I not known about this?  We had known each other for years.  

      One day I answered the phone and Mr. Burbidge was on the other line.  He said, “Hi, Kathi, this is John Burbidge, I understand you like my work!”  My response?  “Oh! Hi!  Uh, wait a minute, I have to sit down!”  Well, we had the best conversation in the whole world.  It was wonderful.  We talked about pattern making, methods of making them, design and interpretation and so many other things.  30 minutes later, I was out of the house on my way to an appointment and calling my husband.  I think I was hyperventilating.     

      Well a few days later, a package arrived in the mail and he had sent me a kind note and a copy of a pattern he created for Doll Reader magazine in 1987.  He made a replica of Sarah Ferguson’s wedding gown worn for her marriage to Prince Andrew.  In our conversation, I wondered if I could execute one of his patterns knowing adjustments for size and scale could be difficult.  That was my challenge; make the dress, anyway I wanted on a smaller scale than his 30” mannequins, and to make it not the same, that is to say, to use the basics and create something different.  

I chose three dolls that were in miniature scales and from those three I would choose one for which to make this dress.  

      Dear purist friends this is where we might part ways, but I will go back to era-correct soon.  I promise.  The figure is an antique reproduction created by Alice Leverett called the Ultimate Fashion Doll™, (www.justalice.com) my favorite doll and my “play doll”.  She is the doll for which I create just for me. 

(Note: Ultimate Fashion Dolls are no longer in production) 

      I am following the patterns (there are no construction directions) and creating a different “modern” wedding gown based on the pattern, but having to think about things such as pattern design, fitting, scale, fabrics, etc.  My hope is to share this project with you as I go along.  

      Please forgive me using my wonderful antique reproduction as a modern gown mannequin, but I have not another doll this size.  (Emilie Claire is off with Ian, doing who knows what, but never mind she is a reproduction, too.)  

My three choices were a Franklin Mint wedding doll.  (At least I think it was Franklin Mint.  She is quite pretty, and I play with her a bit.) She is however meant to be either a 1980s doll when the Peter Fox wedding boot was popular or more of a Belle Epoch bride doll.  She has a pretty face and body, lots of potential with her.  The middle doll is the Alice Leverette Ultimate Fashion doll.  And the far right is a Robert Tonner Tiny Kitty.  Though she is more contemporary in style and appearance I felt I could better use the size and scale of the 12” Ultimate Fashion Doll.  I may yet make one for Tiny Kitty as well.  I do not know. 

Coming up:  We will see her contemporary undergarments, progression on the dress, and maybe an accessory or two.  

As always, 

Have Fun!

Kathi

Back after a llooong absence!

Back after a llooong absence!

I checked, the last submission was October 30^th, and I had intentions of being back real soon.  Two weeks after that I got very sick.  For three months I did next to nothing and certainly did not work on Tiny Kitty or the blog.    Turns out all those things I thought were allergies, were not.  After testing, it seems I am allergic to anything, and I have asthma.  So, after some aggressive treatment to get my bronchitis all better, am now on a daily regimen that has be all happy and working again.   Once well, and I am well, and a 100%, I began to get back on track. I have completed a few projects and intend to share in the days and months to come as I am really proud of the work I did on the dolls.  And I am really glad to be working to see if I can finish this Edwardian day dress for Tiny Kitty.  Little by little I catch up to where I feel comfortable and not pressured to deliver things on a deadline. 

Let’s talk about Tiny Kitty

A little recap, please.  Tiny Kitty is a Tonner, Inc. doll, and is 10”.  My Kitty came to me via the convention souvenir of the UFDC convention in Washington, D.C. in 2013.  The theme was “A Capitol Affair”.  This doll came packaged beautifully in her flip top box with a peignoir on the left and a fan and she was dressed as Mrs.  Helen Taft in her inaugural gown of 1909.  The gown was exquisitely presented with gloves and heels and jewels.  She is a pretty doll of 10”.  She is jointed, I would not say fully ball jointed, but she has some positioning ability. 

The inspiration illustration of the dress shows a drawing of a dress over a chemisette which appeared to be either a delicate print or an eyelet.  Researching the period I found a chemisette of the period and used that as an example.  I have a beautiful 100% cotton eyelet fabric from Urban Gardens Fabrics, that has a small scale embroidery.  I chose to use it for the chemisette.  Also, I didn’t want to use anything that appeared too contemporary in a print. 

Now that the chemisette is complete, I can continue with the dress.  I have added a sneak peak of her fitting for her dress.  I hope you enjoy. 

Have Fun!

Kathi

Tiny Kitty Returns!

As promised I am back again working on Tiny Kitty and her new cotton dress.  Thought I would share the inspiration dress with you so here it is. 

1910

While figuring out the pattern, I had been diligently looking for my blue striped fabric. THE perfect fabric you know you have but for some reason you are unable to locate it?  Yesterday I finally found and sadly, there is not enough to create the dress.  And if there was, there is certainly insufficient fabric for mistakes.  Curses!!!  (Because you know I will make a mistake.) 

Blue solid and striped fabrics

Since my Tiny Kitty has these blue ribbons as accents on her slip, I wanted to keep everything for this figure in blue, but it is not to be.  Serendipity, however, is still alive and kicking in my favor.  I have a found another wonderful fabric in my stash. The fabric is a pretty pink, white and blue striped oxford shirt fabric.  It is nice and soft, but still has the sizing that oxford cloth sometimes has.  I am hoping that will work in my favor. The solid pink fabric is handkerchief linen, very soft.    White Swiss batiste has been selected for the lining or base garment. 

Pink solid and striped fabrics

I have been working on the pattern and stitched it together.  Though it appears to work, I think there is something wrong with it.   I am not sure what it is, but I am thinking I have a small error.  I am sure I will figure it out as I go.  (At least there is a lot of fabric here…just in case!)  And I have no idea at this writing how I am going to recreate the closures.  It also appears I need to create a chemisette for this dress so she will have the pretty eyelet collar.  I purchased some new eyelet form Urban Gardens Fabrics and I think it will be perfect.  If not, well, I’ll surprise you with something.  Or will try. 

Okay, need to get busy making.  Will update you with the progress.  Until then,

drafted pattern pieces

Have Fun! 

Kathi

Second Fitting

Hi, all,

      Just a quick note to let you know that alterations were made to Tiny Kitty’s undergarments.  I have made a small digital layout for you to know the changes I made. (Elements are from Scrapgirls, LLC)  The new pictures will show the better fit for her slip and explain the changes I made.  She is so much happier with her garments. 

      I will be away for a couple weeks before continuing to work on Miss Kitty’s Edwardian clothes.  Until I return, I will be taking a class, and taking a small vacation to visit friends.  While I am busy with these things, I will also be working on the pattern for the inspiration dress.  I keep reinterpreting the assembly process.  I do want to try for a new pair of shoes, too!  It will be a challenge. 

Until, then, have a wonderful Labor Day Holiday!

Kathi 

A new Slip for Kitty Collier

It never pays to rush things.  I got a late start on tiny Kitty’s slip this week.  Sunday was my first opportunity to continue her undergarments.  I am afraid it shows.  A couple of errors in the hurrying up for the blog, and then I realized I do not really need to hurry, do I? 

I totally forgot about the adjustment to make in the hip area of the corset, which made my slip just a tiny bit, maybe one seam allowance, tight.  I hate ripping seams after so much work.  At the last minute I decided to sew up the back seam, (I was going to leave it open, but who wants to sit on buttons?) The corset strings create a bit of a bump as well.  I can fix it.    

My original intention was to have a princess styled silhouette, but the more information I had it became apparent a narrower shape would be required.  I narrowed the panels, added lace, and cut off the excess slip fabric from the bodice and the hem.  I added lace straps instead. 

The pictures below show the working out of the pattern and the changing the silhouette. 

Kathi 

I chose this picture as an inspiration. 

Pattern made and sample slip tested.  Ready to cut out and sew. 

Advice for succession sewing.  Lay out the pieces in the order for which they are assembled, pick one up and sew, then to the next, and on and on.  I leave the center back open.

First fitting with primary seam completed for French seaming.  The original intentions was to leave the back open and close the length.  

When adding laces, interview the laces you have.  Do scallops go with geometric designs?  Does one lace and width llook well with another?   

As you can see here, I did not use any of the others and opted to add a simple edging with a beading lace accent.  In other words I kept it simple more or less with my inspiration.  

Here are the laces sewn on, and the slip portions cut away from the laces.  

Completed Slip Front

Completed Slip Back

 (I wonder if I should take this next week to fix the slip and show you the repaired items, re-lace the corset, etc.  At least, the very least, Kitty is more covered and she is becoming more comfortable with the camera. )

Tiny Kitty Corset and Hosiery

Tiny Kitty modeling her corset in the atelier

Tiny Kitty is now less embarrassed than she was last week as she is more fully dressed.  She is still embarrassed about showing her unmentionables.  After last week’s post, I challenged myself to do a layer a week.  I thought I was not going to make it.  I would swear that I had ADD but I think this time, I had a good murder mystery getting in the way.  I worked an hour and read an hour, worked an hour, read an hour.  Most distracting way to work ever, but I could not decide what to do.  It did give me brief breaks to think through stumbling points as well. This corset had quite a few.  Something I would normally take for granted gave me some challenges.  I wanted to go for the longer line but I also wanted to try a new technique.  As with all projects, I began with research and some pictures.

The corset pattern pieces traced to interfacing, ironed and cut out.  The same pattern draw onto the outside fabric.  The pieces were all sewn together by machine and sewn together again.  

Kitty’s corset fits fairly well, but on second review, it appears that I should reduce the width in the hips and perhaps increase it in the bust line.  (Would that were my problem.) Since this corset was a first for me, I made some mistakes along the way.  However, the final result looks quite well, mistakes and all.  There are so many seams and channels that on this size figure, I did not use stays.  The stiffness with interfacing and lining was sufficient to give the feel of a tightly fitting corset.  I used brads and eyes for the corset busk.  It looks like it works.  I will not be dressing and undressing her, as I need to work out some strength details of the closure.  If the metal color is not right, get that done PRIOR to finishing the closure. 

The fitting and lacing process.  Snap the front together, fit the back and future removal depends only on unbuttoning the front each time.  No more unlacing, no more dressers, fit once and done! 

At the last minute, I decided she needed a pair of hose.  I am contemplating a set of garters to hang from the corset.  We will not know until next week, but I should move on to the slip.  I hope that I will get a step closer to deciding which casual dress to make.  And I am still researching the shoes or boots.    

Thank you for reading, and as always have some fun!

Kathi Mendenhall

Tiny Kitty Collier

I just got home from the UFDC Convention in Washington, DC, and boy did we have fun!!  Oh, wait, that was TWO YEARS ago!  Are you kidding me?  Two years!  Well, as life has it, yes, and I have needed all these two years to recover from it.  Why you ask, well, that was quite a year, I had a birthday, I do every year, would that it would slow down for just a moment and let me catch my breath!  We downsized 2000 square feet into the home I have now.  I have been recovering from that, too.  My gorgeous 15’ by 30’ workroom with closets and built in shelving and SPACE must condense to the third bedroom of the new house, a 12’ by 12’ room.  Picture my distress.  I digress.  That story is another day, and I have pictures! 

(And yes, I complain about it in every post, or so it seems.  Will things ever be working for me?) 

I had a wonderful convention, I usually do, and arrived home revved up to make pretty doll clothes.  The sweet convention souvenir doll of Tiny Kitty Collier (which I adore!) in her embroidered Mrs. Taft Inaugural dress made me think she would be a good size to make some additional wardrobe of the period. (Think titanic, for fashion period, not the sadness, and the early Downton Abbey for inspiration.)  As the little ladies scream for clothes constantly, I keep them packed away.  ALL OF THEM, and I cannot stand it.  They want and want and want.  What is a poor dressmaker to do?  Poor Kitty, she was tired of those heels and wanted something a little more casual to go shopping.  (Grace from Atlanta 2009, has waited the longest and she is next, I am swearing to myself that she will be next.)  In the meantime, I thought I would share with you the way I go about the dressing. 

I believe Tiny Kitty to be a contemporary doll making this a little anachronistic, but she is now representing Mrs. Taft, so Edwardian we go.  In such small dolls, it is imperative to keep the costume for becoming ungainly.  I usually make fabric selections of very fine fabrics, not always old ones, usually of natural fibers, as they are more conducive to conservation.  In addition, I make the clothing as historically correct as I am capable.  I do take some license, however.  Tiny Kitty Collier is 10”.  Her combination, also chosen to keep from additional waistline bulk, is of fine cotton batiste. 

Miss Kitty was not happy about having pictures made in her dishabille.    So, please be kind to her.  If all works well, by this time next week I can post her corset.  Maybe even a pair of stockings.  

Here you will see where I have worked out the pattern.  Pieces on the right have a lot of notes, and hem needs shortening.  The lace is the trim I used to bind the armhole and neck edges. 

  .  

Miss Kitty is sporting her new combination. I like to wait for the closure until the corset is complete.  Most likely I will add a silk ribbon to tie the top together as the corset will hold everything together.