Sewing for Marie Louisette

Making Her circa 1860s Skirt 

I am pleased that more of this plaid skirt is completed, and not so pleased that I have not written sooner.  I have real reasons for that and some excuses, but here we are.  I am taking it as a win!  

The inspiration came from many places, but an outfit I did for my Ultimate Fashion Doll and some pictures from Pinterest kept me going forward.  Today I will discuss the skirt and it making.   (The blouse should come first, but I couldn’t decide what I really wanted to do.)     

 

Creating the pattern was easily completed.  It is customary for doll skirts of this period to completed as a one piece of cloth adventure.  The back is higher, and the front is lower to accommodate the rear bell shape and the small train. 

(During this project you might notice that she needs a hoop.  I have not completed one…yet. It’s on the list of things to do.  However, the skirt is stiff enough with the weight of silk to hold its shape and allow her to stand with no doll stand aid. 

After measuring the doll and setting up the hem and waist, I completed the hem first.  The general way is to fold up ¼” (proving the straight line and a clean finish) and then folding again.  In this even I folded up an additional inch.  This gave me a nice line at the hem of the skirt.  The hem is then stitched into place.  (I did leave the back a little undone as I wanted to finish the back seam and then finish the hemming. 

When I placed the skirt over the doll, I realized I had made a horrible mistake and was not sure what to do.  I measured her skirt front and noted the box pleats and marked the back for cartridge pleats.  That would accommodate the balance of the fabric. 

What I learned was I didn’t pay attention to the bottom measures, and perhaps the skirt was a bit full for this size of doll.  What did I do to fix the issue?  Weelllll, I folded the hem up another inch and rehemmed it.  (I am worried about running out of fabric for the coat and the second Ball Gown bodice.  I will keep you posted as I go along. 

It won’t be long, and I will return with a picture of the skirt and the blouse woes.  Yes, there are some of those as well. 

In the meantime, it’s Springtime!  Isn’t that wonderful? 

Best Wishes, Kathi

Happy New Year and already off to a late start!

 

January 16, 2025 

Dear Friends, 

Can you believe it is January, and I am already behind!  Found myself a bit over committed with projects. I thought I would be done early December, then mid-December, then by New Years, you see how this is going.  And it appears I could be this irregular on posting this year, but I am trying not to be.  May I say I am grateful I do not do New Year’s resolutions!  My beginning would not bode well.    

What I do for myself, and friends is, however, not brain surgery, so some time in getting things right is not a bad thing.  I have been working diligently on an outfit for Tiny Kitty. (Robert Tonner, 10” reduction of Kitty Collier.)  She is my wonderful break from antique reproduction things.  And let me tell you it is hard to take those breaks as I love my little dolls so much.  Sometimes it is interesting to exercise contemporary sewing skills and to keep my hand in.  I have almost forgotten how to use a sewing machine.  (Not hardly likely!)

(Much of my delay is due to a lack of a sewing room, and organized sewing space. We still do not, after three months, have a roof fixed up there.   Helene did a job in the south, and we are in the que for things but not our turn yet. We are much better off than most as we have a home and live in the spaces downstairs. It seems ungrateful to complain.  I try not to get impatient, but truthfully, I want to get to the top of the list)   

I did spend a couple of weeks on crutches as I sprained my big toe, so walking was out of the question.  I am now all better and out and about and with new walking shoes.  They feel great. 

Anyway, back to Tiny Kitty.  I found an outfit on Pinterest and am not sure why, but it took all my attention.  This would be my first pattern draft for Tiny Kitty.  The first thing I learned, and should have known, is mind your measurements.  For some reason the gown was too large.  So, here we go with Papa and Mama bear routine.  Yes, it was too large.  (I had mistakenly added the seams twice.) 

The original Pattern was a Simplicity 7858, 1960s

Next it was too tight. No one likes that.  But the problem to solve here was where were the closures to go? The center back seam of this doll would have taken up the entire back panel.  So, I attempted to place the closure in the side seam, but that would stop me from slipping it either up her legs, a step in dress, or I would need an additional snap or hook at the shoulder.  That wasn’t working for me either. 

Finally, I decided to make the back side seam open, and added a hook and thread loop to hold the back seam closed.  I will be honest I am not great at getting those perfectly placed.  It really did not look well when put on a doll. 

Then, I remembered a skirt pattern I did that wanted to come open just a tad when the skirt was closed.  I decided I would put in what I call a “swing snap” and that would make the closure.  I think it was “Just Right.”

The last task was to make the cape I continued to make quite a few mistakes there, too.  Of course, I did.  I sewed the sleeves backwards, twice.  Then I sewed the front side to the back.  Naturally.  So, I put it down for a couple of days.  Then laid everything out as it should have gone and voila, I had a correctly made and fitting cape.  It’s line in China silk, too!

The backside of the cape made of a cotton twill

The inside of the cape with silk lining

Finished Cape

I hope you all are looking forward to a wonderful year of dollmaking and dressing. I am hoping as I catch up with things here, I will have made all my errors in January and the year will look great!  Wouldn’t that be wonderful?  And please don't forget, Have Fun!  Kathi