Bridal Challenge - The Dress and Veil

 

Wow, this was challenging!  There were several iterations for the bodice, first in paper, then muslin, and then muslin again.  I should have made a fourth, but I was too lazy.  After the third, I marked a place to make an adjustment on the pattern and then went with it.  According to Mr. Burbidge’s article in Doll Reader, his reproduction dress was of bridal satin of silk/rayon in antique ivory.  The bodice had two layers of lining, one of organdy and one of cotton gauze. 

 

For my doll, I had selected silk/satin or charmeuse.  Charmeuse is not a particularly easy fabric with which to work.  I also selected beaded and sequined netting as I did not really want to do all the beading and embroidery of the original dress or the reproduction dress. Once I had all the pattern pieces for the bodice and skirt drafted and ready to cut, I started second-guessing all my decisions.  Yes, ALL of them!  I was afraid the silk for the slip would tear, I was afraid I couldn’t do the sewing on the charmeuse as it is a tricky fabric, and I didn’t know if the beaded net would be too much and look all wrong.  I was at a dead stop.  

Two weeks had passed since I wrote the above paragraph. Here is where I am, I used the charmeuse, yes, I did.  I would not suggest it unless one has superior sewing skills.  I am not that person, but I had to soldier on.  I went back to the article to see what Mr. Burgess used and decided to ADD the extra layer of cotton for the bodice.  I thought the scale of it would not work, but even in a smaller doll, this is a good idea, using Swiss Batiste, Silk organdy, and silk charmeuse.  The pieces were basted together and treated each as one section of the bodice then sewn together on the machine. 

 

I made the skirt in three pieces as well only joining them at the end at the waistline. 

 

The veil is lace with attached silk netting.  It, too, will be, or maybe embellished with beads, sequins, and crystals.

Today, as of this writing.  I have not yet completed this dress.  It has lain packed away for a few years. The truth is that Mr. Burbidge has died but was able to send him pictures of the dress this far.   I have lost all verve for this project.  However, the train is completed as a separate piece, if I pick it up again, will be attached via hooks and loops at the center back.  And then all that is left is beading, sequins, crystals, and whatever else I want to make it fussier and a real wedding dress. 

 

Remember my doll is a doll of the period of the late 1800s, so it is out of context in this 20^th century dress.  But the project was fun, and I was thrilled to be able to work with my sewing idol.  He was one of the highlights of my sewing career. 

 

A special note.  I may be off the blog for a few weeks as I complete two projects, impossibly with the same deadline. I appreciate your patience.  Hope and joy to all.  Happy Thanksgiving to you, too. 

Bridal Challenge

 

I have a project I would like to tell you about, but it is anachronistic and I do not want my purist friends to go crazy.  I mean I would not do this unless there was a real reason for the project and there is a reason.  This is a story of six degrees of separation.  A friend of mine, Nancy, is a friend of someone I idolize, the late Mr. John Burbidge.  (Les Petites Dames des Modes see previous post:

http://creativedoll.blogspot.com/2008/02/who-is-john-burbidge.html)  

I talked and talked about him when we had a chance.  One day she let the bomb drop.  I know him, you know.  My jaw dropped.  I asked her a billion questions.   My friend Nancy was the hairdresser for his Little Ladies.  She wigged and styled each one.  I was flabbergasted but fascinated as well.  How had I not known about this?  We had known each other for years.  

      One day I answered the phone and Mr. Burbidge was on the other line.  He said, “Hi, Kathi, this is John Burbidge, I understand you like my work!”  My response?  “Oh! Hi!  Uh, wait a minute, I have to sit down!”  Well, we had the best conversation in the whole world.  It was wonderful.  We talked about pattern making, methods of making them, design and interpretation and so many other things.  30 minutes later, I was out of the house on my way to an appointment and calling my husband.  I think I was hyperventilating.     

      Well a few days later, a package arrived in the mail and he had sent me a kind note and a copy of a pattern he created for Doll Reader magazine in 1987.  He made a replica of Sarah Ferguson’s wedding gown worn for her marriage to Prince Andrew.  In our conversation, I wondered if I could execute one of his patterns knowing adjustments for size and scale could be difficult.  That was my challenge; make the dress, anyway I wanted on a smaller scale than his 30” mannequins, and to make it not the same, that is to say, to use the basics and create something different.  

I chose three dolls that were in miniature scales and from those three I would choose one for which to make this dress.  

      Dear purist friends this is where we might part ways, but I will go back to era-correct soon.  I promise.  The figure is an antique reproduction created by Alice Leverett called the Ultimate Fashion Doll™, (www.justalice.com) my favorite doll and my “play doll”.  She is the doll for which I create just for me. 

(Note: Ultimate Fashion Dolls are no longer in production) 

      I am following the patterns (there are no construction directions) and creating a different “modern” wedding gown based on the pattern, but having to think about things such as pattern design, fitting, scale, fabrics, etc.  My hope is to share this project with you as I go along.  

      Please forgive me using my wonderful antique reproduction as a modern gown mannequin, but I have not another doll this size.  (Emilie Claire is off with Ian, doing who knows what, but never mind she is a reproduction, too.)  

My three choices were a Franklin Mint wedding doll.  (At least I think it was Franklin Mint.  She is quite pretty, and I play with her a bit.) She is however meant to be either a 1980s doll when the Peter Fox wedding boot was popular or more of a Belle Epoch bride doll.  She has a pretty face and body, lots of potential with her.  The middle doll is the Alice Leverette Ultimate Fashion doll.  And the far right is a Robert Tonner Tiny Kitty.  Though she is more contemporary in style and appearance I felt I could better use the size and scale of the 12” Ultimate Fashion Doll.  I may yet make one for Tiny Kitty as well.  I do not know. 

Coming up:  We will see her contemporary undergarments, progression on the dress, and maybe an accessory or two.  

As always, 

Have Fun!

Kathi

1/12th Scale Patterns for Static Display

Good Morning!  The entry today is to discuss a static display in your room box or vignette.  Oftentimes, the patterns and dresses that fit dolls are not suitable for fro room displays.  They do not always hang well on a hanger, though some do, nor do they manipulate well for laying across a bed or scrunched into a chair. 

The 2000 category of La Petite Belle Patterns is made just for this purpose.  The design of the garments is there without all the girth of the dress to fit a doll.  These patterns for you today do NOT fit onto a doll.  But if you wanted them too, you would have to do some extra fabric cut on the sides to make them work.  If you like the pattern for a project, do give it a try, you never know what you will achieve. 

Before I moved, I wrote a bit for AIM magazine.  It is a FREE e-zine completed by the Artisans that are shown in the periodical.  This is their blog address, and it is a great resource.  http://www.artisansinminiature.com/  Do visit the archives.  The magazines are through SCRIBD, which is also a Free to join enterprise for publishing books and periodicals.  This link will take you to the most recent issue, but there is plenty to see there.  https://www.scribd.com/document/423776008/AIM-IMag-Issue-71

I did a monthly for a jet setting woman of the 1950s and completed 12 articles for them.  Today I am providing you three of those patterns.  They are large PDF’s and printing is laden with color, so if you want to save them it is fine, be warned about printing them.

Today I have included some undergarments, always pretty to display.  I understand one of the products I used, Fairy Lace, has been discontinued, but I have some suggestions for if you would like to make this set.  If you cannot get the Fairy Lace, you can use any 2mm ribbon, or even cut the header off of heirloom lace and use it.  Thin pieces of fabric and even braided thread will work as well.  For Fairly Lace, please visit:

http://www.dragonflyintl.com/shop/contents/en-us/d56.html

The links for the patterns are under the picture, they are clickable. 

The dress and hat are meant to go together, pick some fun and contrasting fabrics to make a perfect ensemble.  The fabrics in the 1950s were colorful and fun.  Also, can be made in a sheer fabric a la Grace Kelly. 

Courtesy- https://www.theweddingsecret.co.uk/magazine/iconic-wedding-dresses-in-film-high-society/

I hope you use these patterns and have great fun with the fabric interpretations.   

 

https://www.minidolls.com/images/03SewRetroMarch.pdf

https://www.minidolls.com/images/04SewRetroDress.pdf

https://www.minidolls.com/images/PurpleHat.pdf

Have Fun!

Kathi

Christmas in August - Sort Of

 

Do you belong to a club?  Draw names?  Must make the gift yourself?  Need an idea? This was me a few years back.  I drew the name of a collector of beautiful things and maker par excellence!  She did not, she had said, I remembered, have much room left.  And I knew she liked the little ladies.  What to do, what to do? 

Here I am with a small gift and some easy instructions.  Not detailed mind, but if you make miniatures this could be easy. 

All you need is a 5” X 7” picture frame with a small mat, some scrap papers, a copier, some photo paper, and a half-scale doll.  The almost 3” size.

Create a small black box of a bottom dimension of 3” X 5”.  I made a box of black scrapbooking paper with a 1” side to it.  Borrow a picture of a pretty folding screen (outside) from the internet and print this onto shiny photo paper.  Scale it to fit inside the little black box.  (You can do this in any program now by squeezing to fit or dragging corners.) Cut this out with a scalpel.

This picture will allow you to see the size and scale of the project.  

Now copy a couple of dresses you like, size them, and print them on some cardstock.  Use bits of fabrics and ribbons to glue on the paper dresses for hanging on the screen.    And, dress your little dolly with small scraps by shaping and wrapping.  Embellish as you like.  Use a long glass head pin wrapped with ribbon as a parasol.  Add any other items you may have to spruce it up and bring your creation to life.   

This is a closer view.  Click to enlarge more.  

Put it all together.  Use some scrap paper to line the bottom of your little box representing wallpaper.  Using a ruler and ball stylus, score from the backside, the screen, and fold into thirds.  Sharpen up edges of the screen with scalpel and markers.  Then glue you pretend dresses as if they are thrown over or hanging on the screen. 

Glue the mat onto the box and allow to dry then frame it up with the glass holding it all together.  The frame stand should be free to sit on a desk or table or hang on the wall. 

This is a picture of the final presentation with the frame added.  

Have Fun, Kathi

 

Tiny Kitty Returns!

As promised I am back again working on Tiny Kitty and her new cotton dress.  Thought I would share the inspiration dress with you so here it is. 

1910

While figuring out the pattern, I had been diligently looking for my blue striped fabric. THE perfect fabric you know you have but for some reason you are unable to locate it?  Yesterday I finally found and sadly, there is not enough to create the dress.  And if there was, there is certainly insufficient fabric for mistakes.  Curses!!!  (Because you know I will make a mistake.) 

Blue solid and striped fabrics

Since my Tiny Kitty has these blue ribbons as accents on her slip, I wanted to keep everything for this figure in blue, but it is not to be.  Serendipity, however, is still alive and kicking in my favor.  I have a found another wonderful fabric in my stash. The fabric is a pretty pink, white and blue striped oxford shirt fabric.  It is nice and soft, but still has the sizing that oxford cloth sometimes has.  I am hoping that will work in my favor. The solid pink fabric is handkerchief linen, very soft.    White Swiss batiste has been selected for the lining or base garment. 

Pink solid and striped fabrics

I have been working on the pattern and stitched it together.  Though it appears to work, I think there is something wrong with it.   I am not sure what it is, but I am thinking I have a small error.  I am sure I will figure it out as I go.  (At least there is a lot of fabric here…just in case!)  And I have no idea at this writing how I am going to recreate the closures.  It also appears I need to create a chemisette for this dress so she will have the pretty eyelet collar.  I purchased some new eyelet form Urban Gardens Fabrics and I think it will be perfect.  If not, well, I’ll surprise you with something.  Or will try. 

Okay, need to get busy making.  Will update you with the progress.  Until then,

drafted pattern pieces

Have Fun! 

Kathi

Second Fitting

Hi, all,

      Just a quick note to let you know that alterations were made to Tiny Kitty’s undergarments.  I have made a small digital layout for you to know the changes I made. (Elements are from Scrapgirls, LLC)  The new pictures will show the better fit for her slip and explain the changes I made.  She is so much happier with her garments. 

      I will be away for a couple weeks before continuing to work on Miss Kitty’s Edwardian clothes.  Until I return, I will be taking a class, and taking a small vacation to visit friends.  While I am busy with these things, I will also be working on the pattern for the inspiration dress.  I keep reinterpreting the assembly process.  I do want to try for a new pair of shoes, too!  It will be a challenge. 

Until, then, have a wonderful Labor Day Holiday!

Kathi 

A new Slip for Kitty Collier

It never pays to rush things.  I got a late start on tiny Kitty’s slip this week.  Sunday was my first opportunity to continue her undergarments.  I am afraid it shows.  A couple of errors in the hurrying up for the blog, and then I realized I do not really need to hurry, do I? 

I totally forgot about the adjustment to make in the hip area of the corset, which made my slip just a tiny bit, maybe one seam allowance, tight.  I hate ripping seams after so much work.  At the last minute I decided to sew up the back seam, (I was going to leave it open, but who wants to sit on buttons?) The corset strings create a bit of a bump as well.  I can fix it.    

My original intention was to have a princess styled silhouette, but the more information I had it became apparent a narrower shape would be required.  I narrowed the panels, added lace, and cut off the excess slip fabric from the bodice and the hem.  I added lace straps instead. 

The pictures below show the working out of the pattern and the changing the silhouette. 

Kathi 

I chose this picture as an inspiration. 

Pattern made and sample slip tested.  Ready to cut out and sew. 

Advice for succession sewing.  Lay out the pieces in the order for which they are assembled, pick one up and sew, then to the next, and on and on.  I leave the center back open.

First fitting with primary seam completed for French seaming.  The original intentions was to leave the back open and close the length.  

When adding laces, interview the laces you have.  Do scallops go with geometric designs?  Does one lace and width llook well with another?   

As you can see here, I did not use any of the others and opted to add a simple edging with a beading lace accent.  In other words I kept it simple more or less with my inspiration.  

Here are the laces sewn on, and the slip portions cut away from the laces.  

Completed Slip Front

Completed Slip Back

 (I wonder if I should take this next week to fix the slip and show you the repaired items, re-lace the corset, etc.  At least, the very least, Kitty is more covered and she is becoming more comfortable with the camera. )

Tiny Kitty Corset and Hosiery

Tiny Kitty modeling her corset in the atelier

Tiny Kitty is now less embarrassed than she was last week as she is more fully dressed.  She is still embarrassed about showing her unmentionables.  After last week’s post, I challenged myself to do a layer a week.  I thought I was not going to make it.  I would swear that I had ADD but I think this time, I had a good murder mystery getting in the way.  I worked an hour and read an hour, worked an hour, read an hour.  Most distracting way to work ever, but I could not decide what to do.  It did give me brief breaks to think through stumbling points as well. This corset had quite a few.  Something I would normally take for granted gave me some challenges.  I wanted to go for the longer line but I also wanted to try a new technique.  As with all projects, I began with research and some pictures.

The corset pattern pieces traced to interfacing, ironed and cut out.  The same pattern draw onto the outside fabric.  The pieces were all sewn together by machine and sewn together again.  

Kitty’s corset fits fairly well, but on second review, it appears that I should reduce the width in the hips and perhaps increase it in the bust line.  (Would that were my problem.) Since this corset was a first for me, I made some mistakes along the way.  However, the final result looks quite well, mistakes and all.  There are so many seams and channels that on this size figure, I did not use stays.  The stiffness with interfacing and lining was sufficient to give the feel of a tightly fitting corset.  I used brads and eyes for the corset busk.  It looks like it works.  I will not be dressing and undressing her, as I need to work out some strength details of the closure.  If the metal color is not right, get that done PRIOR to finishing the closure. 

The fitting and lacing process.  Snap the front together, fit the back and future removal depends only on unbuttoning the front each time.  No more unlacing, no more dressers, fit once and done! 

At the last minute, I decided she needed a pair of hose.  I am contemplating a set of garters to hang from the corset.  We will not know until next week, but I should move on to the slip.  I hope that I will get a step closer to deciding which casual dress to make.  And I am still researching the shoes or boots.    

Thank you for reading, and as always have some fun!

Kathi Mendenhall

Tiny Kitty Collier

I just got home from the UFDC Convention in Washington, DC, and boy did we have fun!!  Oh, wait, that was TWO YEARS ago!  Are you kidding me?  Two years!  Well, as life has it, yes, and I have needed all these two years to recover from it.  Why you ask, well, that was quite a year, I had a birthday, I do every year, would that it would slow down for just a moment and let me catch my breath!  We downsized 2000 square feet into the home I have now.  I have been recovering from that, too.  My gorgeous 15’ by 30’ workroom with closets and built in shelving and SPACE must condense to the third bedroom of the new house, a 12’ by 12’ room.  Picture my distress.  I digress.  That story is another day, and I have pictures! 

(And yes, I complain about it in every post, or so it seems.  Will things ever be working for me?) 

I had a wonderful convention, I usually do, and arrived home revved up to make pretty doll clothes.  The sweet convention souvenir doll of Tiny Kitty Collier (which I adore!) in her embroidered Mrs. Taft Inaugural dress made me think she would be a good size to make some additional wardrobe of the period. (Think titanic, for fashion period, not the sadness, and the early Downton Abbey for inspiration.)  As the little ladies scream for clothes constantly, I keep them packed away.  ALL OF THEM, and I cannot stand it.  They want and want and want.  What is a poor dressmaker to do?  Poor Kitty, she was tired of those heels and wanted something a little more casual to go shopping.  (Grace from Atlanta 2009, has waited the longest and she is next, I am swearing to myself that she will be next.)  In the meantime, I thought I would share with you the way I go about the dressing. 

I believe Tiny Kitty to be a contemporary doll making this a little anachronistic, but she is now representing Mrs. Taft, so Edwardian we go.  In such small dolls, it is imperative to keep the costume for becoming ungainly.  I usually make fabric selections of very fine fabrics, not always old ones, usually of natural fibers, as they are more conducive to conservation.  In addition, I make the clothing as historically correct as I am capable.  I do take some license, however.  Tiny Kitty Collier is 10”.  Her combination, also chosen to keep from additional waistline bulk, is of fine cotton batiste. 

Miss Kitty was not happy about having pictures made in her dishabille.    So, please be kind to her.  If all works well, by this time next week I can post her corset.  Maybe even a pair of stockings.  

Here you will see where I have worked out the pattern.  Pieces on the right have a lot of notes, and hem needs shortening.  The lace is the trim I used to bind the armhole and neck edges. 

  .  

Miss Kitty is sporting her new combination. I like to wait for the closure until the corset is complete.  Most likely I will add a silk ribbon to tie the top together as the corset will hold everything together.