Bridal Challenge - The Undergarments

 

While working on a smaller scale a few changes of fabrics must be thought out.  After many substitutions of the fabrics and trims, I ordered what I needed from Michelle Mahler of The Doll Artist's Workshop.  (www.minidolls.com)

The Panties

I chose to make a basic set of panties in a French nickers style.  Considering the hose and garters I had to have room for the stand that is fitted into the doll at the crotch area.  So, each item had to be loose or well be non-existent for that accommodation.  Beginning with the panties I chose Thai silk.  The silk was challenging, and if you try this size, some charmeuse would be pretty, too.  The nickers are French seamed at the center front, center back, and crotch.  The top of the pant gathered with lingerie elastic for simplicity.  The leg openings edged with vintage lace. 

Hose and Garter

 What a dilemma!  I wanted to make pantyhose as I thought they were the contemporary fashion thing to do.  But I decided I would make some thigh-high patterned hose.  This fabric came from a pair of personal knee highs I had saved for the purpose.   (I also made a pair of knitted silk fabric, not having the skills to knit and/or crochet a pair.)  The garter, made of ruched blue silk ribbon is not pictured.  (Not unpacked or photographed at this writing.)

 

I must digress as I want to know if princes pull up the skirts of their princesses grab garters to fling to their groomsmen?  Is this a tacky tradition?  Who started it?  I’ve been married for 48 years and we have one of those crazy pictures, too!  No need to share.  But I wonder, we never see the reception parties. 

Shoes

The shoes in the photo are borrowed from another gown.  I have not yet, after all these years, made a pair for this project.  

   

 Slip

With the slip, there were many adjustments to be made.  though drafting the pattern for this sized doll, I had also considered also the breadth and fit of the bodice area.  My doll is 1/3rd the size of Mr. Burbidge's mannequin and scale wise she has less bosom and more "cheek".  Based on the original design, drawings, and article, I chose again to use Thai silk for the slip. I started with a more antique ivory color, almost ecru, but changed at the last minute for an ivory color.  The coloring was better for the dol porcelain.  The draft of the slip bodice went well, but during fitting, I found it was better to remove an entire panel.  I removed the side back.  

The trimming used on the top and bottom of the slip bodice is lace edging to lessen the bulk a lining or bias trim would cause.  The pressed seams are all facing to the back, topstitched, and trimmed.  This creates a boned effect and for firmness and reduce any bulk multiple layers might create.  I did also use some small plastic strips for “boning” and hold the slip bodice firm and up.  The under slip and over-slip were treated the same, raw edges trimmed with lace, folded toward the right side, stitched.  One and a quarter-inch lace was ruffled and sewn to the bottom of both slips.  As the slip is ivory and the lace is white, not a usual pair up for me, I added a white and ivory “buds-n-bows” silk ribbon trim to the top slip over the ruffle.  A little more handwork and three snaps later, voila! 

What would I do differently?  Perhaps use Swiss cotton for the slip, and darts in her tap panties with a back opening.  The elastic in the waistband creates bulk I had not thought about in advance when drafting the slip bodice.  Ah, don’t you love 20/20 hindsight? 

Have Fun!

Kathi

Bridal Challenge

 

I have a project I would like to tell you about, but it is anachronistic and I do not want my purist friends to go crazy.  I mean I would not do this unless there was a real reason for the project and there is a reason.  This is a story of six degrees of separation.  A friend of mine, Nancy, is a friend of someone I idolize, the late Mr. John Burbidge.  (Les Petites Dames des Modes see previous post:

http://creativedoll.blogspot.com/2008/02/who-is-john-burbidge.html)  

I talked and talked about him when we had a chance.  One day she let the bomb drop.  I know him, you know.  My jaw dropped.  I asked her a billion questions.   My friend Nancy was the hairdresser for his Little Ladies.  She wigged and styled each one.  I was flabbergasted but fascinated as well.  How had I not known about this?  We had known each other for years.  

      One day I answered the phone and Mr. Burbidge was on the other line.  He said, “Hi, Kathi, this is John Burbidge, I understand you like my work!”  My response?  “Oh! Hi!  Uh, wait a minute, I have to sit down!”  Well, we had the best conversation in the whole world.  It was wonderful.  We talked about pattern making, methods of making them, design and interpretation and so many other things.  30 minutes later, I was out of the house on my way to an appointment and calling my husband.  I think I was hyperventilating.     

      Well a few days later, a package arrived in the mail and he had sent me a kind note and a copy of a pattern he created for Doll Reader magazine in 1987.  He made a replica of Sarah Ferguson’s wedding gown worn for her marriage to Prince Andrew.  In our conversation, I wondered if I could execute one of his patterns knowing adjustments for size and scale could be difficult.  That was my challenge; make the dress, anyway I wanted on a smaller scale than his 30” mannequins, and to make it not the same, that is to say, to use the basics and create something different.  

I chose three dolls that were in miniature scales and from those three I would choose one for which to make this dress.  

      Dear purist friends this is where we might part ways, but I will go back to era-correct soon.  I promise.  The figure is an antique reproduction created by Alice Leverett called the Ultimate Fashion Doll™, (www.justalice.com) my favorite doll and my “play doll”.  She is the doll for which I create just for me. 

(Note: Ultimate Fashion Dolls are no longer in production) 

      I am following the patterns (there are no construction directions) and creating a different “modern” wedding gown based on the pattern, but having to think about things such as pattern design, fitting, scale, fabrics, etc.  My hope is to share this project with you as I go along.  

      Please forgive me using my wonderful antique reproduction as a modern gown mannequin, but I have not another doll this size.  (Emilie Claire is off with Ian, doing who knows what, but never mind she is a reproduction, too.)  

My three choices were a Franklin Mint wedding doll.  (At least I think it was Franklin Mint.  She is quite pretty, and I play with her a bit.) She is however meant to be either a 1980s doll when the Peter Fox wedding boot was popular or more of a Belle Epoch bride doll.  She has a pretty face and body, lots of potential with her.  The middle doll is the Alice Leverette Ultimate Fashion doll.  And the far right is a Robert Tonner Tiny Kitty.  Though she is more contemporary in style and appearance I felt I could better use the size and scale of the 12” Ultimate Fashion Doll.  I may yet make one for Tiny Kitty as well.  I do not know. 

Coming up:  We will see her contemporary undergarments, progression on the dress, and maybe an accessory or two.  

As always, 

Have Fun!

Kathi